Climbing in the Benasque Valley
Big dihedral V+ 210m
Russell Peak 3207 meters. Located in the Central Pyrenees, in the Benasque Valley. Province of Huesca.
RUSSELL PEAK: 3207 meters
The Russell Peak is a mountain located in the central area of the Pyrenees, in the province of Huesca, Spain. It is located in the Maladeta massif, in the Posets-Maladeta Natural Park, at an altitude of 3,207 meters above sea level. It is one of the most popular summits in the area for climbing and mountaineering, thanks to its impressive views and the variety of routes and routes it offers. The approach to Pico Russell is usually done through the Vallibierna valley, from the Refugio de Pescadores, and it is an experience that every mountain lover should live at least once in a lifetime.
If you are a climbing lover and are looking for a beautiful route in a solitary place in the Pyrenees mountain range, the Gran Diedro route on Russel Peak is an excellent option. In this article we will provide you with all the information you need to make this exciting climb.
Approach:
The route starts at the Refugio de Pescadores or Refugio de Coronas (1970 meters), located in the Vallibierna Valley. From there, follow the path that leads to the Collado de Vallibierna. The path is signposted (GR11) and is easy to follow. Once you reach the Ibones Llosás, continue to the small Ibón de Llosás a little further up. Once there, a small path sometimes not very well marked goes off to the left, if you look carefully there are some milestones. We will begin to ascend through a somewhat steep terrain until we reach a rocky area where we will find ourselves in a large cirque. Depending on the time of the year we can find some snowfields at the foot of the path.
The approach takes approximately 3 to 3.30 hours, depending on who and if you know the area. We have to take into account that we are loaded with material.
It is possible to bivouac before in several places, but there is a very famous bivouac on the right before taking this trail. Times: 2 hours to the bivouac and 1.30 hours to the foot of the trail.
The Vallibierna trail is closed to private vehicles all year round (since 2023), so you have to walk up the 9 km trail or take the park bus: Bus schedules at this link.
Climbing via Gran Diedro:
The Gran Diedro route is a 210-meter rock climbing route, with a maximum difficulty of V+ in free climbing.
First pitch ( V+ 55m): It begins with a vertical section up to a large boulder, where we will make a small traverse to the right until we reach the first V+ pitch. In this place we will find a parabola since it is a bit rare to self-protect. Once we have passed this pitch we will arrive at the first meeting.
Second pitch (Vº 45m): Next, the route continues with a section of slab climbing next to a small roof to our right, with a difficulty of V.
Third pitch (Vº 50m): We begin to enter the most configured and vertical zone of the dihedral. The grade ranges between IV with some V pitches.
Fourth pitch (IV+30m): The penultimate pitch consists of a vertical section from IV to IV+, uncomplicated, very nice with great atmosphere and breathtaking views. Enjoy it!
Fifth pitch (III 30m): Last pitch that leads us to the last equipped belay. From here it will be a 10 minute walk to the summit. Pay attention to this pitch that although it has a grade of III and IV is very broken, there are many loose stones and gravel. Be careful if there are any climbers behind us because we can spoil their day. From here we reach the summit of Russell Peak (3207 meters).
Descent:
1st Option: It is possible to rappel along the same route.
2nd Option: Normal route to the Margalida peak.
Return:
From the summit we will head towards the Margalida peak, once we are in a stony field we will go to the left, where we will suddenly see a milestone that will lead us to a channel. In the channel there is a path but we must banish several times without difficulty. After several meters we will follow the path that runs along the wall diagonally until we descend to the foot of the mountain.
The eternal rocky road begins, full of giant boulders and dozens of milestones that lead you everywhere. Look at the bottom of the valley of Vallibierna and head as straight as possible until you find a path through the grass to the bottom of the valley. From there we will soon recover the GR11 by which we came on the approach, and from there to the refuge of Coronas again.
Conclusion:
The climbing route of the Diedro Central del Pico Russell is one of the most emblematic routes of the Benasque area and the Pyrenees in general. It is a demanding activity if done in a single day, with a pleasant level of climbing, which requires good physical and technical preparation, as well as proper planning of the route and weather conditions.
IMPORTANT: The route is a V+ grade route, that is, V+ of high mountain, be careful to go with the right grade that you might get caught.
Technical data:
Approach:
- Approximately 3.30 hours
Climbing:
- 3 hours ( Orientative, according to climbing level)
Positive elevation gain:
- 1275 meters
Distance:
- 12.55 kilometers
Type of route:
- Circular
Coordinates:
- Refugio de Pescadores or Refugio de Coronas: 42º 36’37’N 0º37’16’E
- Foot of the track:
History:
- First ascent: Dani Vega and Luis Alfonso. in July 2011.
Material required:
- Double rope.
- Friends game
- Aliens Game
- Rigid boot or cat’s feet.
Equipment:
- General: Unequipped (see section on necessary material). Some isolated sheet metal at a specific point, as in the key pass of the first pitch.
- Gatherings: Parabolts or Spits.
Book your mountain or climbing activity:
If you are looking for a unique mountain experience, climbing the Central Diedro del Pico Rusell is one of the activities you are looking for, as well as other routes in the Maladeta Massif. Book your activity now with us, Roca y Agua Guides team.
If you would like to do this activity or others with a professional guide of our team, and you want information and prices about all our activities in the Pyrenees visit our links:
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